Today, we headed to the Tibetan border. This was totally against all the rules but I did so want to see Tibet that we decided to bend them just a little bit. I was once told by an Indian guide, in the Himachal Pradesh, that rules on paper only become rules when you get caught. The Kora La is the gateway, between Tibet and Western Nepal. Sven Hedin, the explorer, crossed this border into Mustang in 1905; he travelled as far as the village of Garphu, a short way from the checkpoint. He did not stay long, because he was running short of money, having only enough for two more days. Secondly, he had no knowledge about whether the Nepalese were hostile or friendly. Finally, he turned round and went back to Tibet, because he was afraid if he stayed away for too long, he would be refused admittance back into the country.