No Purdah in Padam: The story of the women’s overland Himalayan expedition 1958

by Antonia Deacock

The story of the women's overland Himalayan expedition 1958 to Padam in the Eastern Zanskar. Not to be outdone by their husbands who were themselves mountaineers three intrepid ladies embarked on their journey which everyone said could not be done by women. Lady Hunt generously lent her name to the expedition also Dame Isobel Cripps and Mrs Pandit. After some sensational newspaper publicity and the support of the Rover Company. The expedition finally was on its way.

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The Bon Monastery at Kewzing in Sikkim

The Bon Monastery at Kewzing in Sikkim

This Tibetan folk religion has many beliefs which predate Buddhism and encompasses indigenous beliefs and animism practices. These are primarily concerned with propitiation of the spirits and demons of Tibet, which are believed to inhabit all areas of the country. Folk religious practices rely heavily on magic and ritual and are generally intended to bring mundane benefits, such as protection from harm, good crops, healthy livestock, health, wealth, etc. I was fortunate to be allowed to photograph the interior of the monastery when I visited in May 2017. There are only two Bon monasteries in India the other is in the Himachal Pradesh.

Lunch at a farmhouse in Haa Bhutan

Lunch at a farmhouse in Haa Bhutan

I had the chance of visiting a farmhouse in the Haa district also known as Hidden-Land Rice Valley in the west of the country on the Tibetan border.

There is a large Indian military presence here because of the incursions by the Chinese. The farmhouse is also a homestay guest house.

I found many similarities with the houses in Ladakh India, but there were some surprises. I found a western bathroom and Tibetan-style bedrooms which looked comfortable with colourful mattresses and cushions laid out on the floor.

The lunch was delicious and I ate so much that I had to be helped down the ladder style staircase.

Lumbini Nepal 2016

Lumbini Nepal 2016

This intrepid traveller was in Lumbini in search of the birth place of Buddha in the south of the country. I am happy to say she succeeded in her aim.

The place was full of pilgrims from all over Asia queuing to venerate the actual birth place which is housed in a large building. I had hoped for a moment of enlightenment but nothing happened so I went back to the hotel for dinner

Swayambunath Monastery Kathmandu

Swayambunath Monastery Kathmandu

Prayer flags flutter in the breeze taking blessings into the universe. Tibetans sell trinkets and bric-a-brac at the many stalls. A few monkeys try to make a nuisance of themselves but the tourists and pilgrims just ignore them. It is pleasant to sit under the prayer flags and reflect on life and watch life go by.

The Road to Zanskar Kashmir 2013

The Road to Zanskar Kashmir 2013

Two day after leaving Leh I finally reached Padum. I stayed overnight at Kargil. The guy who carried my luggage to the room was shocked at how little I had. We changed drivers here I said goodbye to my Buddhist Ladakhi and hello to the Moslem Kashmiri, who spoke little English which suited me. The road was barely a track in places and often we forded streams. The icy mountain peaks followed us along the Zanskar river. I was aware of them watching me.

The Srinagar-Leh Highway 1978

The Srinagar-Leh Highway 1978

The Srinagar-Leh highway is open about four months of the year from May to September. In July 1978 as part of a group I travelled from Srinagar to Leh stopping overnight at Kargil. We were some of the earliest tourists to come to Ladakh since this remote region bordering of China and Pakistan had been open to foreigners since 1974. After about a week we were all due to return to Srinagar but in the meantime I had made friends with a young motor biker who promised me that he would come and pick me up from Alchi and take me back to Leh leaving the others to return to Kashmir. I did not really believe he would turn up but to my amazement he did and I had the most thrilling ride of my life riding pillion along one of the highest roads in Himalaya. This itinerary change altered my entire life because I made friends in Ladakh which have lasted nearly forty years.

Ode to the Feet of the Young Men

Ode to the Feet of the Young Man

Do you know the world’s white roof-tree — do you know that windy rift
Where the baffling mountain-eddies chop and change?
Do you know the long day’s patience, belly-down on frozen drift,
While the head of heads is feeding out of range?
It is there that I am going, where the boulders and the snow lie,
With a trusty, nimble tracker that I know.
I have sworn an oath, to keep it on the Horns of Ovis Poli,
And the Red Gods call me out and I must go!

by Rudyard Kipling 1897

High Hills

High Hills, by Geoffrey Winthrop Young

There is much comfort in the high hills
And an easing of the heart.
We look upon them, and our nature fills
With loftier images from their life apart.
They set our feet on curves of freedom, bent
To snap the circles of our discontent.

Mountains are moods; of larger rhythm and line,
Moving between the external mode and mine.
Moments of thought, of which I too am part,
I lose in them my instant of brief ills,
There is a great easing of the heart,
And cumulance of comfort on high hills.

by Geoffrey Winthrop Young

Parting

Extract from The Parting, by Matthew Arnold

Ye are bound for the mountains?
Ah! With you let me go,
Where you cold distant barrier
The east range of snow
Through its loose clouds lifts dimly
Its white peaks in air:
How deep is the stillness:
Ah! Would I were there.

Extract from The Parting, by Matthew Arnold

I Hold the Heights

I Hold the Heights,, by Geoffrey Winthrop Young

I have not lost the magic of long days,
I live them, dream them still
Still I am a master of the starry ways,
And freeman of the hills;
Shattered my glass, ere half the sands had run.
I hold the heights, I hold the heights, I won.

Mine still the hope that haileth me from each height
Mine the unresting flame.
With dreams I charmed each doing to delight;
I charm my rest the same.
Severed my skin, ere half the strands were spun
I keep the dreams, I keep the dreams I won.

What if I live no more those kingly days?
Their night sleeps with me still.
I dream my feet upon the starry ways;
My heart rests in the hill.
I may not grudge, the little left undone.
I hold the heights, I keep the dreams I won.

by Geoffrey Winthrop Young

Letter from Ladakh

Letter from Ladakh

The human lives are enjoying,
The birds and creatures are enjoying
The branches of trees are tossing,
The waters in rivers and rivulets flowing.
Moon, stars in sky are shining.
Some are kissing, some are hugging (into darkness of night.)
You and I are far away only waiting.

by P.K.K. August 13 1980

Legacy

Legacy

We stood breath less on the peak
In that eternity of mountains;
You now claim as your own.
Wrapped in a thousand years of wind;
We stood and listened
To the music of the earth
Below us rivers
Silver gleaming
Tuned by the sun to liquid gold,
And fields of corn
And sparkling cities.
Fair courts a-shimmer
With flaming blossom,
With humming birds
And dragon flies
And honeyed fruit as paliered on the wall.

But
The silver and gold have turned to water,
The once-rich fields be barren and waste;
Instead of garden-skeletal forest
And beggars at the city gate.
Now you astride the eternity of mountains
Wrapped in a thousand years of wind
You listen to the music
While I
Can hear no longer

by Anna Ranasinghe 1970

The Call of the Wild

The Call of the Wild

Have you gazed on naked grandeur where there’s nothing else to gaze on,
Set pieces and drop-curtain scenes galore,
Big mountains heaved to heaven, which the blinding sunsets blazon
Black canyons where the rapids rip and roar?
Have you swept the visioned valley with the green stream streaking through it,
Searched the Vastness for something you have lost?
Have you strung your soul to silence? Then for God’s sake go and do it;
Hear the challenge, learn the lesson, pay the cost.

by Robert Service

The Himalayas

The Himalayas

Though hundreds of men have scaled
up it’s back,
It forever retains it’s pristine beauty
and virginity!
Clad in its eternal mantle of pure
whiteness,
Stands that lofty citadel of ice and
snow,
A place where the very God’s dwell!

On reaching it’s summit up high,
It is not the peak we only conquer
each time;
But we conquer ourselves!
Displaying indomitable will and
human spirit,
To rise above all earthly fetters!
To aspire and to reach,
Where only the brave, the courageous,
and the stout-hearted,
Do dare, and forever excel!

by Raj Nandy
New Delhi 16 Mar 08

The Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

The Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

A diamond on the crown of Himalaya, the Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan
A piece of heaven on the earth, the beauty of which will fail any poet’s imagination.
A country that represents genuine peace and tranquility
A country that can teach what is meant by natural beauty.
Equally nice are the people who live in this beautiful place
People who represent humility, dignity and grace.
The country is a spectacular blending of modernity and tradition
Where modern technology happily co-exists with age-old culture and convention.
Making regular visits to this land has become my favourite passion
I love you, The Sandalwood Ornamented Kingdom of Bhutan.

by Raja Basu

Himalaya

Himalaya

Majestic you are,
Awe inspiring is your peaks,
Touching the sky,
Meandering through your rocky terrain is
Many a Holy River,
Causing the rise of ancient civilizations,
Beauty manifested in magnanimity;
Dotted with Shrines,
Where Silence is worshiped,
And Sanctity is preserved.

by Debabani Chandra

The Green Eye of the Yellow God

The Green Eye of the Yellow God

There’s a one-eyed yellow idol
To the north of Kathmandu;
There’s a little marble cross below the town;
And a brokenhearted woman
Tends the grave of ‘Mad’ Carew,
While the yellow god for ever gazes down.

Extract from The Green Eye of the Yellow God, by J. Milton Hayes