Two day after leaving Leh I finally reached Padum. I stayed overnight at Kargil. The guy who carried my luggage to the room was shocked at how little I had. We changed drivers here I said goodbye to my Buddhist Ladakhi and hello to the Moslem Kashmiri, who spoke little English which suited me. The road was barely a track in places and often we forded streams. The icy mountain peaks followed us along the Zanskar river. I was aware of them watching me.