Two day after leaving Leh I finally reach Padum. I stayed overnight at Kargil the guy who carried my luggage to the room who was shocked at how little I had. We change drivers here I say goodbye to my Buddhist Ladakhi and hello to the Moslem Kashmiri who speaks little English which suits me. The road is barely a track in places and often we forded streams. The icy mountain peaks follow us along the Zanskar river. I am aware of them watching me.